How to Select Your First Flamenco Manton: Essential Tips

Choosing the right “mantón para baile”, or dance shawl, is a crucial step for any dancer interested in learning to work with this gorgeous prop. The manton is not just a beautiful accessory; it’s an integral part of flamenco’s expressive language. From the size and quality of the fabric to the details of its embroidery and fringe, each element contributes to the shawl’s performance and aesthetic. This guide will help you navigate the essential aspects of selecting your first shawl.

Content:

1. Understanding the different type of shawls

2. Size Matters – Shawl Fit and Size Assessment

3. Quality of Fringe (flecos) and macrame (enrejado)

4. Embroidery and Material

5. Price Range and Budget Considerations

6. Where to Buy Your First Flamenco Dance Shawl

Maria Osende performing with a silk, embroidery shawl. Her shawl is folded in a triangular shape. Photo: Rebecca Hartery

 1. Understanding the Different Types of Shawl

Understanding these distinctions is crucial when selecting a flamenco shawl, ensuring that you invest in one suitable for your intended purpose. 
 

Manton de Manila & Manton para Baile: Both of these shawls are suitable for flamenco dancing, though they differ in material and intricacy. 

The Manton de Manila (silk) is often finely embroidered and made from silk. These shawls are typically large enough and can be a significant investment a they are usually made out of natural silk  and craftsmanship involved. They are versatile and can be used both in performances and as fashion accessories.

The Manton para Baile (polyester) is a lower cost shawl, created specifically to practise or perform. These shawls are typically less elaborate than the Manton de Manila, but they are still crafted to be durable and visually appealing and often made out of polyester instead of silk.  They could be plain without embroidery or with embroidery. This type is ideal for dancers seeking a practical, less expensive  shawl. They are so to speak, an imitation of the wanton de manila.

 Mantoncillo or pico, small shawl worn around the shoulders[/caption]

Mantoncillo or “pico” (on your left) These are smaller shawls usually worn around the shoulders as an accessory . They are a must-have during the Feria de Sevilla, as they beautifully complement traditional dresses. However, they are are not suitable for dance because they are too small and lack the necessary size and structure for expressive movements.

2. Size Matters – Shawl Fit and Size Assessment

For practical reasons, the size of the manton is critical. An ideal flamenco dance shawl should be:

Material (body) size: 140cm x 140cm (55″x55″) and the most standard size to 190cm x 190cm (74″x74″) , not including the macrame or the fringeNotice when open it is a square, but itis mostly used folded in  the sandwich shape. Some shawls are just a triangle, there are not ideal on the long run but will work to start.

Macrame (enrejado) width between 8-15cm (3″x6″) 

Frindge length between 40-60 cm (15″x23″) 

This size ensures the shawl can be draped and manipulated effectively during a performance. 

Smaller shawls won’t work for dance.

It is also important to use common sense and consider your own body type. If you are petite, you may opt for 140×140  while taller, long-limbed dancers may benefit from a 150×150 or 160×160 larger one. Additionally, larger sizes and more elaborate embroidery will result in a heavier shawl. Therefore, it’s crucial to consider your upper body and shoulder strength to handle the weight comfortably during a performance.

When assessing the fit and size of a manton, a few practical tests can help determine if it’s appropriate for you:74

  • Both of the shawls above are a good fit for these dancers. Notice how the macrame “enrejado” on the shawl on the left is wider than the one on the right. Macrame adds quality of movemebt, it also ads labour and cost.

  • Resting Position Test:
    Place the shawl on your shoulders. If the fringes touch the floor, the shawl is too long for you. A correctly sized shawl should have the fringes hanging comfortably without dragging on the ground, allowing you to move freely without stepping on them.

  • Triangle Test:
    Hold the shawl in a triangle shape with your arms stretched out. Your hands should fit comfortably within the material, and the shawl should adequately cover your bum. This ensures there is enough fabric for expressive movements without feeling restricted.

3. Quality of Fringe (flecos) and macrame (enrejado)

Fringe Quality and Length

The fringe of a manton significantly enhances the visual impact of the dance, creating flowing lines and adding dynamic movement. High-quality fringes are generally thicker, tighter, and more durable. Longer fringes add weight, which helps the shawl to move smoothly and elegantly, enhancing the overall aesthetic. When selecting a manton, it’s important to inspect the fringes carefully to ensure they are well-made and unlikely to tangle. A good quality fringe not only looks better but also lasts longer, maintaining its appearance through repeated use.

Macrame Craftsmanship and Length

In addition to the fringe, the macrame (knots) is a crucial aspect of the manton. Intricate macrame work is often a sign of higher quality. The wider the macrame section, the more air the shawl can catch, allowing it to suspend beautifully in the air during movements. This can create a captivating visual effect and enhance the fluidity of the dance. It’s important to avoid the temptation of attaching fringe material yourself without proper macrame, as this can make the shawl difficult to handle. Many have tried to save costs this way, but it often results in a shawl that is hard to work with and does not move as elegantly—it’s a lesson learned the hard way!

  • Above a low quality shawl (1/2 size, just a triangular shape). The fringes are flimpsy and lack weight and density.

 

 4. Embroidery and Material

The embroidery on a manton adds weight and texture, contributing to the shawl’s overall look and feel. High-quality shawls often feature tight, intricate embroidery, which can make the shawl heavier and more expensive. While it is possible to find plain shawls, often referred to as “rehearsal shawls,” these tend to slip more easily and lack the balance provided by embroidered ones. For the best experience, even a beginner should consider a shawl with some level of embroidery. The material is another key factor; silk is ideal for its luxurious feel and durability, while polyester options can be more affordable but may not drape or move as well.

Above, dancer María Pagés is twirling a fabulous shawl. Observe the wide macrame and the long, dense fringe, which significantly differ from the shawl shown earlier. The shawl she uses is undoubtedly a high-quality piece, likely costing over 1,000 euros. In contrast, the earlier example features a half shawl, which is triangular rather than square, and is estimated to cost under 100 euros. In the picture, María Pagés uses the shawl in its full extension, fully opened as a square, which wouldn’t be possible with a triangular half shawl.

5. Price Range, Factors and Budget Considerations

Four Factors Determine the Cost:

Material:
  • Silk: Ideal for fluid movement, easier to handle when dancing. Silk shawls are versatile, doubling as fashion accessories or home decor.
  •  
  • Polyester: A more affordable option, though less luxurious than silk.
  •  
 
Embroidery:
  • Benefits: Adds weight to the shawl, enhancing its movement and visual impact.
  • Cost Implications: Elaborate or hand-made embroidery significantly increases the cost.
  • Design Complexity: More intricate and denser designs are generally pricier.
  • Considerations: While embroidery enhances aesthetics, excessive amounts can make the shawl heavy and difficult to maneuver.
  •  
Macrame:

Importance: Essential for movement; the wider and more intricate, the better the shawl’s fluidity.

Cost Factor: Adds to the overall cost of the shawl.

 
Fringe:
  • Quality: High-quality fringes are crucial for the shawl’s durability and longevity.
  • Low Quality Issues: Cheap fringes can fall out during practice, diminishing the shawl’s appearance and utility over time.
 

Price Range:

  • Silk Shawls with Embroidery: Prices typically start around 375 euros (CAD $600) and can go up to 937 euros (CAD $1500).
  • Polyester Shawls: Usually start at approximately 175 euros (CAD $250).
  •  
  • Lower Price Shawls: Options under these price ranges may not offer the same durability or quality.
  •  

Budget Consideration:

  • Select a shawl that fits your budget and intended use, whether for practice, performance, or dual purposes. This ensures you make a wise investment in a shawl that will serve you well and endure the demands of use.
Mantoncillo or pico, small shawl worn around the shoulders
Dress made out of a manila shawl by Johanna Ortiz

5. Where to Buy, Price Range, Factors and Budget Considerations

Specialized flamenco dance stores, both physical and online, offer a variety of options. For those on a tight budget, eBay or similar marketplaces can be good starting points, but be sure to check the size and quality carefully.

Some recommended online stores include:

As of August, 2024

For tight budgets, starting:

Etsy: Anuka BARCELONA  – CAD $70  for 1 triangular size shawl. Looks like it could do to start.

Higher-end ones:

FlamencoDesign – €400

D’Pertinez –  €375 –600  This is a great shop in Madrid, sort of a local secret, here you can see a variety of 140×140 shawls in silk, to get an idea of prices and colours, silk embodied shawls, so that would be a bit of a n investment for sure. Check out silk dance shawls

eBay (a great way to get your first shawl) http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spanish-shawl

I am sure there are many more out there! Did you find a good place to buy? Share it with us!

Comparing Prices Online: Beware of 21% VAT Discount

When buying flamenco shawls from specialized Spanish retailers, be aware that most times, if not always, the VAT (Value-Added Tax)  are included in the price listed. As of 2024, Spain’s VAT (IVA) is 21%, one of the highest in Europe. This tax should NOT apply for residents outside the European Union. 

Price Listings:

  • European Price Listings include VAT, unlike in Canada or the US, where taxes are added at checkout. When purchasing from outside the EU, you should not be charged the 21% VAT. 
 
Although some websites offer different prices for different countries, based on taxation, other samller business sometimes do not and you might get the tax off when you add your shipping address.
  •  

Either way, ensure VAT is removed from the price at checkout if you’re outside the EU, potentially saving you 21%.  

If you buy your shawl when in Spain,
go to a shop that offers the TAX FREE SERVICE, and you can claim your HST at the airport on your way home. This consideration helps make accurate price comparisons and ensures you get the best deal.

Practical Tips for Beginners

When using your manton, avoid accessories like buttons, jewelry, or flowers in your hair that could catch on the fringes. 

Opt for shoes with laces rather than buckles to minimize the risk of snagging. 

Care

To care for your shawl, avoid washing it or soaking the fringes. 

Instead, steam it or hang it in a humid bathroom to help the fringes straighten and maintain their appearance.

Conclusion

Selecting your first flamenco manton is an exciting step in your dance journey. By considering factors like size, fringe quality, embroidery, and budget, you can find a shawl that not only looks beautiful but also enhances your performance. Investing in a quality manton will make a significant difference in your dancing experience, allowing you to fully express the passion and grace of flamenco.

 

Written by Maria Osende, August 2024

Shawl worn as a dress
Skirt made out of a shawl